Before the bottom gets glued on there are a couple of
things to be done to finish it off.
First is to drill 5/64” pilot holes then countersink with a ¼” bit 1/8”
deep for the screws that will hold the film box in place. Once the screw locations are marked on the
film box using the small punch (just to the right of the drill circled in red)
the pilot hole will get drilled out to 1/8” to provide clearance for the screw
threads. The left photo is a drawing of
how it all fits together and the right photo shows the setup for the
countersink.
Next is to glue the pin that was turned on the lathe and
fitted in Post #5 Starting the Film Knobs into the base. With that done the bottom is glued on,
clamped and left to cure.
After the film box has cured overnight it’s removed from
the clamps and using a sheet of 220 sandpaper clamped down to my table saw
extension I sanded the faces smooth.
Because one of the two pieces in the corner joints of the
film box is end grain and end grain makes a weaker joint, I was concerned about its long-term strength so decided
to reinforce it some using pin nails.
Pin nails are shot in using an air gun.
Here is the ½” long one I will be using set against a ruler. They are quite thin at about 24 thousandths
of an inch in diameter.
The pneumatic pin gun, a stick of the nails and the film
box look like this.
The next day with the bottom piece’s glue cured the
clamps are removed and the joints flattened using the same method as the film
box above. Here it is along with the
knobs and film box that’s been marked for the film guide channel.
Moving on the front and back pieces are cut to their
final size. Using the router a rabbit is
cut around the perimeter of each so they can be set into the body. This photo shows the router setup and where
the final cut has been made on the ends but not on the top or bottom.
Here it is finished front with the film box opening laid
out and center lines drawn in. They will
be used as a double check for locating the center of the pinhole lens since
it’s a bad thing when the lens and the film don’t line up.
Milling the mounting flange for the pinhole lens along
with the magnet hole for the shutter is next.
It’s not all that hard but does need to be accurately located. Odds are it’s going to take a lot longer to
measure and double check than it is do the milling.
A little thought needs to go into the order of operations
to keep everything concentric and centered in the right place. First is to drill a small pilot hole all the
way through the front. This will act as
my reference point for boring in from each side. Next is to clamp a stop block to the right
side so it will be easy to reset the front in same position as I pick it up and
measure the hole depth. The 1.5” hole is
bored from the outside to the proper depth.
Then the 1.5” bit is removed and the 1.25” bit installed. It is then used to bore the inner opening a
little deeper than its actual final depth.
That will make sense in the next step.
Here you can see where that has been done along with the small pilot
hole.
The piece is flipped over and the pilot hole is used to
align the piece in place. Now the 1.25”
bit is removed and the 1.5” bit put back in the drill press. The hole is then drilled to the final
depth. Because the inner smaller hole
was bored a little deep it overlaps what is being drilled now. That’s why I didn’t have to worry about
getting it to its exact depth. The photo
below shows how it all comes together.
Dry-fitting the pieces together make it look more like a
camera than a collection of spare parts.
In the bottom photo the camera is not centered so the pin hole looks out
of alignment but it does line up with the center of the film box.
A little work on the back is next. It needs to have four holes drilled for the
magnets that will hold it on and they need to match up with the ones already
drilled in the top and bottom. You can
see the holes in the bottom photo above.
After marking them out the centers need to be punched so the drill bit
has a starting point and won’t wander.
Since I really want them to match exactly a little help from the
jeweler’s magnifier is needed. It may look
a little funny but it sure helps getting it right.
Once marked a trip to the drill press and using a dial
caliper to check the depth gets them all drilled square, plumb and the right depth. Here you can see how they line up with the
existing holes in the body.
Next Up – Milling the Shutter, Finishing the Film Box
& Glue-up
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