Garage Light – #3 Gluing All Sorts of Pieces Together

The main framework assembly starts by gluing the center “U” shaped sub-assembly to the posts.  This is because they fit into a dado and can’t slide side to side which locks the four posts into alignment.  That’s followed by shooting a pin nail from the inside through the post into the “U” shaped piece.  The same process is used for the second and third “U” shaped pieces.  The photo shows the process with the first two “U” shaped pieces glued and nailed in place.   The clamps on the third “U” shaped piece are there to help keep the pieces aligned during assembly.

Here the third piece is ready to be glued and nailed.  The inset shows a pencil line that’s the limit of the joint overlap when assembled.  The enlarged inset shows a closer view of the pencil mark.  It’s used as a guide so I know where to limit the glue application so there won’t be any glue on the part of the post that’s exposed or if glue is squeezed out when the "U" shaped piece is slid up inside the joint next to the post.  It only takes a small drop of glue on each of the six contact points which is spread with a toothpick. 

Once the glue has cured the clamps are removed and the three spacers at the back fill in the "U" shape are glued in place to make a box of the assembly adding quite a bit of rigidity.  They are shown highlighted in the drawing and noted with the red arrows.  Because the light structure gets applied to a larger plywood backer it needs to have a flat mounting surface.  This precluded the use of the overlapping corners used on the front face.  Doing this drove the assembly installed "U" shaped sub-assemblies because there was no good place to glue these last three spacers to at that point.  With the framework assembled there is now a place where the spacers can be added.  Unfortunately, it’s glue only as the two pieces are too thin to pin nail together.   That’s why all the clamps are needed.

Here are a couple of photos of what the light fixture framework looks like to this point.  For reference the framework is about 15” tall.

Installation of a filler strip provides a surface flush with the inside of the posts and a 1/8” decorative top reveal on the exterior is next.  The top drawing shows these pieces highlighted.  In the bottom photo the red arrow points to the highlighted first filler piece glued and nailed in place.  The other eleven pieces, four per layer get glued and pin nailed in place.

This photo shows the two top layers with the filler strips installed.  The red arrow points to the reveal mentioned above.

Next is to glue and pin nail the front and back supports for the top and side lens material.  To make sure the supports are in the right place a spacer is used for consistent locating.  The drawing below shows the back horizontal support and two of the vertical columns highlighted. With one horizontal support in place two of the vertical columns could be fitted and glued in place.  I would have liked to have pin nailed them into place but could not get the nail gun to fit inside the frame’s latticework so I had to glue and clamp them in.  Unfortunately, there was only room to glue and clamp in two of them at a time.  The top photo shows the first two installed and clamped in place.  The red arrows in the bottom photo point to one of the top supports and one of the columns.  

Adding the other columns by gluing and clamping them the same way as the first set is next.  Last is to add the remaining supports for the lens material.  The red arrows show the ones visible in the two photos at the top, middle and bottom of the fixture.

Here, on the left is the completely assembled light frame ready for final sanding.  The rendering on the right shows the lens panels in place with the panels translucent enough so the light frame and electrical parts are visible.  In reality I plan on using panels that are translucent enough to not block much of the light but opaque enough to hide the light bulbs and fixture.  Not sure if they will be glass or plastic. 

After final sanding I stained the frame a light golden oak to enhance the grain and so it would stand out from the white wall of the garage.  It did take a while to apply the stain because while the piece is not very big there are a lot of inside corners, nooks and crannies both on the inside and on the outside to do.  Using a small cotton swab helped make sure these places were fully stained.  For the finish I had two options either a wipe-on polyurethane or sprayed on lacquer.  In the beginning I was leaning toward the wipe-on poly as it has given me good results for small projects with complex shapes that are hard to get good even coverage when spraying lacquer.  However, while applying the stain it looked like there will be enough room inside and in the open spaces between the corner posts that spraying is an option.

After getting the airbrush out and doing some practice dry runs to check spraying clearances and angles I decided to go ahead and spray the frame with lacquer.  The photo shows the frame upside down because the light will be mounted high on the wall centered at about 7’-2” above the floor.  As a result, the primary view of the light will be from below rather than from above or straight on.  The little bit of the frame that did not get sprayed with this setup will be done later by flipping the light.  If things don’t match perfectly at the top, it won’t be seen.  I don’t anticipate a problem but it’s better to be safe.  If you are interested in getting a more detailed discussion on the lacquer spraying setup this link will take you to my Greene & Greene End Table project.  If you are wondering about the blue tape, it’s to prevent those areas from getting sprayed with lacquer because that’s the area where the frame will get glued onto the backer which I haven’t made yet.

Next Up – Framing Back Panel, Installing Light Socket & Dry Fitting Framework to Back

Garage Light – #2 Corner Posts, Rough Blanks, Main Horizontal Pieces & Glue-up

Next is to cut the rabbit at the top and bottom of the post so the cross bars can be inset.  The left drawing shows the top part of the post with the highlighted area showing what needs to be cut.  The right drawing shows how the highlighted cross bars will fit into the rabbit in the post.

Using a similar setup on the table saw I made a cut on the left side of a test piece in the top photo below and it’s not quite what I wanted.  The three red arrows point toward where the scoring blades cut just a little deeper leaving a little groove that would be fine if the rabbit was filled with the cross bar but as you can see in the right drawing above the cut face extends above the cross bar so the scoring cut would be visible.  There are a couple of ways to solve that but I choose to make the cut using the router table. The bottom photo shows the test finished routed rabbit on both the face and edges.

Cutting the dado highlighted in the drawing on the left is next.  It’s done with the dado blade since if some scoring lines show up it’s not a problem since the bottom of the dado will not be visible.  In the right photo the test piece is on edge after the first pass has been made.  From here the fence will be moved to the left or right so the final cut width is correct and is aligned with the pencil marks (red arrows).  This completes the work on the blank and it is ready to have the final cuts made to make the posts.

Cutting the posts out of the finished blank is a two-step process.  First, the fence is set to cut the blank down the center then the blank is set face down on the saw and ripped into two pieces.  The photo shows one blank cut in half (left) and the other (right) ready to be cut.

Just a word on safety here.  When working with power equipment and small pieces where my fingers could get at all close to the cutting tool I use something that will keep them at a safe distance.  When ripping the blanks in half this push block is what was used.  It’s not just fingers; eyes, ears and lungs need to be protected with the appropriate gear.  Anyway, once the blanks are ripped in half the fence is set to the post’s final width and both pieces are run through the saw once more.

Here the left drawing shows most of the remaining parts to be cut, their size and quantity.  While working on the posts I also spent some time deciding how to cut up the material to make best use of the many odds and ends.  I decided to take some of the pieces and rough cut them down into the various thicknesses needed.  There may not be enough to do everything but it’s sure going to take care of a lot of them.  The photo shows the various thicknesses needed separated into groups ranging from 9/16” thick on the left down to ¼” on the far right.

The next set of pieces to be made are the Side and Front pieces shown highlighted in the left rendering.  The right shows the dimensions of the individual pieces along with the quantity needed.

The first step is to take the ½” rough cut pieces and bring them down to exactly ½” tall so they fit in the dados cut into the posts.  That’s done by running them through the thickness sander followed by ripping them down with the table saw to the required 3/8” thick.  These pieces are cut into blanks about ¼” longer than needed.  That’s so if I run into a small problem making the rabbits there is a little room to trim the piece down.  Cutting the rabbits is next and because the tips of the rabbit cut will be exposed, I wanted a really smooth surface so used the router to cut them. 

After routing the rabbit on one end of the pieces they get cut to finish length on the chop using a stop block so they are all the same.

Once cut to length it’s back to router table to cut the second rabbit in the Front pieces, the side pieces are only cut on one end.  Here are all the Side and Front pieces plus one extra of each finished and ready to be used.

Gluing the Side and Front pieces together, highlighted in the drawing, and indicated with the red arrows is next.  The back piece is a temporary spacer and not part of this glue-up but a piece gets attached later.  Shown here are the clamps and jig I made to make sure the three pieces are glued up square and the joints tight.  The circled areas are the glue joints.

Here is the clamping jig with the pieces glued and clamped in place.  Once in place a ½” long by .025” diameter pin nail is shot into the joints center.  You can just see it at the red arrow’s point but the zoomed in view shows it better. 

Once the glue cures the process is repeated twice more.  Gluing the “U” shaped sub-assemblies to the four posts is next but first a clamped dry fit is done to make sure everything goes together as planned.  Once clamped together the assembly is checked to make sure all the joints are tight and square.  All the time and effort that went into accurately making the individual parts paid off since everything fit together except for one spacer that was just about 1/64” too long.  A quick trip to the big disk sander took care of that problem and it was time to disassemble and start gluing and pin nailing the pieces together.

Next Up – Gluing All Sorts of Pieces Together

Garage Light – #1 The Problem, Wiring & Starting Light Fixture

As with most houses there are a few things that are irritating after getting moved in and our current home is no exception.  One of them was a giant whirlpool tub in the master bath that was never used and got removed to make better use of the space see Master Bath Remodeling.  Another is how the interior garage lights are switched.  Currently the lights in the garage are switched at the door between the garage into the living area, between the garage and an unfinished store room and one between the garage and the shop.  However, there is not one between at the person door in the garage to the outside.  The drawing below shows what I mean.

If I could get access to the wiring from an attic or basement, I could add another 4-way switch by the back door so the existing garage ceiling lights could be switched from there too.  I’ve wired multiple switches together to control a light and it takes some time since controlling a light from four different locations is not the easiest thing to put together.  Here because the house is on a concrete slab and has a flat roof without an attic there is no way to get to the wiring without chopping holes in the walls or roof and that’s not going to happen.  My planned solution is to pull power from the existing switch at the back door to feed a new switch then use it to control a new wall mounted light next to the back door as in the elevation below.  That’s fairly easy however, there is still the problem of not being able to get wire to a new switch next to the door from the garage into the living area to control the new light from there.  The solution could be to install a powered smart switch at the garage/outside back door and using a battery remote at the garage/house door.  

At least that’s the plan.  The first step is open up the existing switch box and check to see if there is power available to add the new switch.  A little testing with a volt meter verified an available always on power source so that’s good.

Next was to transfer the location of the existing outside light to the inside wall so I wouldn’t end up cutting a hole in the drywall for the new light’s junction box only to find out it’s in the same place as the outside light’s junction box (left photo).  The blue tape (red arrow) is the center of the outside light’s box and the carboard cutout above it is about where the new light will go.

Laying out and cutting the hole for the new switch and light’s junction boxes is next.  That’s followed by pulling wire from the existing switch box to the new switch box and from that box up to the new light’s box.  All of that has been done in the photo below where you can see the wire hanging out of the openings.

With the holes cut and wires pulled I could install the junction boxes then make the necessary wiring connections and install a temporary light switch and light fixture.  The permanent light switches will get installed later since they need to be ordered now that I know the wiring side works as planned.  The light itself will get installed once it’s built which will be the main focus of this project from here on.

Here is a rendering of the light and an exploded plan of the parts needed except for the glass.  In the beginning I was thinking of making it from red oak but then decided to first go through my box of short leftovers and usable offcuts to see what was in there.  Turns out that red oak is the majority of the pieces available so that worked out well and is what I will use. 

Below is a dimensioned plan for each of the pieces needed, there size and quantity.  In total there are 44 wood pieces for the light frame but only eight different shapes.  Looks like there could be some jigs and fixtures used to make multiple identical parts.

More sorting through the leftovers weeding out any that had flaws or that did not color match well enough.  This narrowed the available stack down to the odds and ends in the photo below.  The pieces vary quite a bit in length, thickness and width so I will be spending some time measuring and talking to myself working to get the best cutting plan with the least amount of waste.  There is also a few whose color doesn’t quite match so they will get set aside.

With the majority of the odds and ends marked as to how they will be cut down I started on the four corner posts.  The black and white drawings below show a front and back view of the post along with its dimensions.  To simplify the cutting of the notch in the back of the posts the blank used will contain two posts plus a little extra. That’s shown in the right two color front/back drawings.  The area shown in light yellow will get cut away when the posts are sawn apart and trimmed to final size.  Milling the pair at the same time makes the cutting of the notch easier and safer.

The layout for the double post blank is shown on the end of the board.  The pencil line on the left marks the size of one of the two blanks I will cut off that board.

I cut the notch using a stack dado blade made up of three 1/8” thick cutters that will cut a 3/8” dado.  Once the correct depth of cut is set the blank gets close to being centered then run through the tablesaw resulting in the cut in the left photo.  Moving the fence to the left cuts more out of the notch then when the piece is reversed and run through the saw a second time the result is a perfectly centered notch.  The fence is moved a little more to the left and the pieces run through the saw.  This is repeated until the edge legs are the correct width ending up with what’s shown in the right photo.

Next Up – Corner Posts, Rough Blanks, Main Horizontal Pieces & Glue-up

Courtyard Gate – #13 Adding Edge Extension, Installing Latch Assembly, Strike Plate & Astragal

Adding the thin piece to one edge of the jamb stile is not as simple as cutting a piece the right size and gluing it on.  The drawing below shows where the new piece (in white) will be added to the existing stile.  The problem is since I have already rounded over all the edges if the new piece just gets glued on there is gap where they meet (red arrow) and that’s not acceptable.  To do it right the rounded edge has to be cut off before the new strip can be glued on.  Also, the existing hinge screw holes have to be transferred up from the existing edge to the new piece. 

The first step is to cut a strip that’s a bit wider than the gate.  That’s so I can trim the excess off making the new piece perfectly flush with the existing gate.  Doing it this way gives me a little leeway when gluing the strip on.  If I cut it to match the gate thickness then glued it on there is no margin for error.  The setup to transfer the hinge screw holes is to clamp a thin shim on either side of the stile which is done in the top photo.  The new strip is cut just a tiny bit narrower than the space between the clamp pads so it’s easy to slide in place.  If you are wondering what the red arrows point to, they are nails whose heads has been cut off leaving a point.  These points will transfer the screw location to the new strip.  In the bottom photo the new strip has been set into place and hammered down onto the existing stile and in the process the nails make a mark on the underside of the new strip transferring the hinge screw locations.

Taking the strip off and flipping it over it’s easy to see where the cut nails marked the center locations of the hinge screws.  They are then used to drill a pilot hole for later use.

Next is to cut the rounded edge of stile down to get a square edge.  The top photo shows the door supported by a roller stand so I can control the cut and end up with a straight smooth edge.  The pencil line in the bottom photo shows my rough mark of what gets cut off.  In reality it’s a little more, the red arrow points to the break point between the rounded edge and the flat surface.

With the rounded edge of the gate cut off the new edge strip can be glued on.  Type III glue is used along with a whole bunch of clamps shown in the left photo.  The right photo is a closer look where you can see how the strip overhangs by roughly 3/32”.

Once the glue cures the clamps are removed and a bottom bearing flush cutting router bit is used to trim the strip’s edge flush with the gate.  The photo shows the router setting on the new oversize edge strip with the bit set so the bearing rides against the gate allowing the carbide cutting edges to trim the strip flush with the gate.

Trimming the gate’s width to its new final width is next and done the same way as when the rounded edge was cut off.  Once trimmed the square edge can be rounded over with the router.  Here is what part of the new strip looks like once the installation and routing is completed.

Installing the new stainless steel door handle mechanism shown in the left photo is next starting by drilling two holes; the borehole and edge bore shown in the drawing on the right. 

Measuring and double checking for the location of the borehole for the handle assembly is done because if it gets drilled in the wrong place that’s a real problem.   Once the layout is done and triple checked the hole gets drilled using a hole saw in the drill press.  It’s cut about ¾ of the way through then the door is flipped over to finish cutting.  Cutting from both sides reduces the chance of splintering the backside when the hole saw breaks through.

The edge bore is drilled with a spade bit using a guide block (red arrow) whose hole is made with the same spade bit.  It helps keep me to drill the hole level and square to the edge of the door.

Because the latch assembly is set flush with the edge of the door a square flat-bottomed recess has to be cut.  Rather than trying to do this with hand chisels I built the jig shown in the top photo.  It consists of two “L” shaped pieces that clamp to the door so the latch assembly is centered and the plate just fits in the jig’s opening shown in the bottom photo.  The small router is used to cut the recess the same way as what was planned for the hinge pockets.

The only drawback with making the recess this way is that the corners are rounded rather than being square shown in the top left photo.  That’s not a problem if the piece being installed has rounded corners but in this case the latch plate has square corners.  Even so it’s easy to square up the corners with a chisel and install the latch.

At this point we mounted the doors back in the opening to check the final fitting.  Almost everything looked good except a little problem with the bottom hinges.  Because the jamb wasn’t quite plumb, we added a thin aluminum shim to bring the bottom hinge more in line with the top two.   With the door fitting the center of the strike plate is marked to line up with the latch assembly.  A modification of the latch assembly jig is used along with the router so the strike plate could be flush mounted.

About this time the owners were discussing the final painting color combination of the gates as having the body match the house trim and the Zia as some shade of turquoise.  Based on that I put this image together of a photo and a rendering of the gate with those colors to give them some idea of what it would look like.

There is one last wood piece needed for the gates and that’s the astragal or the stop attached to the inactive door.  Here it gets attached to the left gate when looking from the inside.  The two drawings show where it will get attached with the right drawing having the right gate is slightly open. 

This piece start by gluing up a couple of 2” x 65” pieces done the same way as many of the other glue-ups using the Type III glue and a lot of clamps.  It’s then cut down to needed thickness, width and length followed by rounding over the exposed edges with the router and lastly gluing, clamping and nailing it to the door.

Here is the gate hung and all the active door hardware installed.  There will be a matching dummy handle installed on the right door after the door is painted.  The doors have not been painted yet because it’s late February and might be a bit before the weather cooperates.  Once that’s done, I will post an update.

It's been an interesting project that started way back in early October with the selection of the rough sawn, undried cedar.  Real construction did not start until into November after the boards had dried enough to be stable.  The drying time was so short because the boards were fairly thin and it's really dry here in the desert.  The build has been interesting and fun and I am glad I did it but it's a project that falls in the, "Once is enough" category.