Front Right Leg Before Sculpting |
To give me some guidance and consistency on shaping the
curves I pulled out my old drafting French curve and used it along with some
freehand drawing to add a few layout lines.
They may not be the final shape but at least I had something to start
with.
Pneumatic Die Grinder |
The pneumatic die grinder is also used to cut a concave arc
out to create a smooth transition from the seat to the leg. Once a rough and I mean rough shape is ground
I move on to a series of sanding drums mounted in the die grinder. The drums progress smaller in size and to
finer grits as I refine and create a smooth transition at the joint.
At a certain point I move to hand tools; rasps, files,
sandpaper wrapped flat blocks or around dowels I turned to match the arcs in
the joints and at last just plain old hand sanding down to 100 grit. It takes at least a three of hours per joint
from the start to get to a point where the transitions are pretty smooth, there
are no humps, bumps and there just remains finish sanding. This is almost to that point. I still have some fine tuning to do before I
call it good. Once there I will wait to
do the final sanding until the chair is a lot closer to being finished.
The rear leg to seat joint starts out as the same blocky
form and the front leg. It follows a similar procedure using the same tools as the front legs to shape smooth transitions between the pieces.
Right Rear Leg to Seat Joint Before |
This is the finished work on the leg and
joint below the seat.
Sculpting the rear leg to the arm joint is a little more
involved. I start the same way in
shaping a smooth transition from the leg to the arm. However, on the inside there is a detail that
gives the impression of the leg flowing into the arm.
Left Rear Arm to Leg Joint |
I start with grinding the seat top to rear leg joint then
outlining the curve into the leg and making a smooth transition between the
two.
Layout and Sculpting Tools |
Once the grinding is completed it’s on to refining the shape
with a varied assortment of power tools, rasps, files and sandpaper.
Here the joint is mostly finished waiting for the arms to be
shaped so the two parts can be blended together.
The last little bit to do here is to clamp the headrest back
into place, mark the transition and grind it close to the finished shape. In this picture the left side is completed while the
right side is just marked. Finish
shaping will come later after the headrest is glued and screwed in place.
I do not have a large enough compressor to power pneumatic tools. I found that a relatively inexpensive Roto-zip corded grinder worked well, using the Kutzall burr recommended by Scott Morrison. For me, most of the shaping on this chair was accomplished with a selection of rasps. A coarse rattail rasp was especially helpful for many of the challenging transitions I faced. But the powered burr did save some time.
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