Courtyard Gate – #12 Installing Zias, Completing Edge Roundovers, Jig for Hinge Pockets & Problems with the Door Hardware

The install of the Zia starts by drawing three circles centered on the panel.  The two inner circles are the inside and outside of the center Zia circle.  The outer circle is my reference line for setting the 16 bars or rays around the center circle.

I started the Zia install with the four rays shown in the top rendering.  The bottom left photo has the cross piece and guides set in place that were used to draw the center line.  The red arrow points to an added ¼” wide spacer that’s highlighted.  This spacer is used to locate the first ray in the bottom center photo.  Note the curved bottom of the ray is set to the outer circle drawn previously.  Next a ½” wide spacer is added to locate where the far-left ray goes, right photo.  After this test assembly the rays are glued and pin nailed in place with stainless steel pins.

Once the two sets of short rays are installed the long rays are next following the same process as the short rays.  The top photo shows two of the rays (highlighted) along with the locating spacers (red arrows) that insure an accurate repeatable placement of them.  Once all the rays are installed the center circle gets glued and nailed in.  The bottom photo shows the completed Zia.  One done and three more to go.

Here is what the gates look like with all four Zia’s completed.  You’ll have to take my word that the back side is done too. 😊

Cleaning up the previously routed interior corners is next.  The red circle in the drawing shows the intersection and the right top photo is a close view.  To give an idea of the relative size of the area worked on a dime is set next to the joint.  In the bottom left photo reference lines are added and a sharp chisel has made a cut where the intersecting radiused edges meet.  In the bottom center photo, the chisel has been used to rough out the arc.  Next a small file is used to round and smooth the surfaces and last some 220 grit sandpaper blends everything together while leaving a sharp intersection line where the two curved surfaces come together.  The first one took about 15 minutes to do as I was trying different methods to get an efficient process since there are 32 of these to do.  After a little practice I did get it down to less than 2 minutes each.

With all the radiused corners done adding a matching radius to the outside edges is next.  It’s done with the same router and bit used for the inside edges which had been set aside after the inside edges were routed.

At this point the gates are set in the existing wall opening and using a lot of clamps, spacers, wedges and shims they are adjusted to be plumb, level and square.  To our surprise the gates fit the opening with very little shimming required.  There was a tiny bit of shimming needed along the bottom jamb but that’s because they are a little bowed out of plumb there.  With the gates fitted to the opening reference lines are added from the existing pockets to where the hinges in the gates need to be cut in so they exactly align with the hinges in the existing jambs.  That’s done by using an adjustable machinist square to transfer their location to the doors while they were still shimmed in place. 

The owner decided to use stainless steel hardware to prevent rusting and to match the brushed nickel used on the rest of the house.  He did run into a problem in locating exterior hardware that’s actually made from stainless steel and not just plated with a “stainless” looking finish.  Once purchased I used one of the new hinges to make a jig (top photo).  The small router along with a top bearing bit cuts the width and length of the pocket.  Adjusting the depth of cut so the face of the hinge leaf ends up flush with the gate finishes the setup.  The bottom photos are of the router and bit.  The red arrow points to the bearing that rides against the jig whose outer edge matches the cutting edge.

Before cutting the pockets in the gate stiles, I used some cutoffs from the project to do a test assembly using the new stainless-steel hinges.  Unfortunately, the gap between the jamb and the stile was considerably less than with the original hinges.  This would have caused one of the gates to hit the brick cap on the courtyard wall as shown below. 

Not wanting to try and cut the brick or do anything to it the only other option is to move the gate away from the jamb.  To do that instead of cutting a pocket in the gate for the hinges they will be surface mounted which moves the gate the thickness of the hinge leaf away from the brick.  Using the reference lines penciled in earlier for the top and bottom limits of the existing jamb pockets I used the jig that had been designed to cut the pockets to mark the outline of the hinge for their mounting locations. 

With that done the hinge can be clamped in place, pilot holes drilled and the hinge installed using two of the four screws.  If everything fits up when the gate is attached to the jamb the other screws will be added.  If not, then the gate can be adjusted and the other two screws can be used.  The original holes would then be plugged and the screws reinstalled in their new location. 

The gates are then mounted in place with the hinges set in the existing jamb pockets and fortunately they all fit perfectly with no relocation needed.  When checked the surface mounting provided a sufficient gap between the brick and the gate shown in the photo below solving that problem.

With the doors in place, we checked the fit of the latch throw or moving part of the latch (red arrow) and found it is too short to securely fasten the door.  This means that the gap between the gates needs to be reduced.  To do that requires a thin piece of wood to be glued onto the jamb edge of the left gate.  Not the news I was anticipating at this point in the project.

Next Up – Adding Edge Extension, Installing Latch Assembly, Strike Plate & Astragal

Courtyard Gate – #11 Installing Infill panels, Fitting/Gluing Mortise Plugs & Marking Zia Reference Lines

Before adding the center infill panel shown highlighted in the top drawing, I need to install the infill plug that blocks rain from entering the groove in the bottom rail discussed in the last post.  The area where the plug goes is circled in red in the drawing.   It will fill a small gap shown by the red arrows.  The left photo shows the plug ready to install and the right photo has it installed closing up the small gap. 

With that done the center panel can be added.  It is not glued in but held in place using the stainless-steel pin nails at its center.  This way it’s free to move within the grooves as humidity changes but will always be centered.  The photo also has the right or since the gate is laying down the top panel just set in place.

The final major assembly is next consisting of the last infill panel and the highlighted stile.  When the left panel was installed, it was glued to the stile and clamped in place while the glue cured.  That process won’t work for the last panel since the center panel is where the clamp would go.  To get around that problem spacers are put in each of the tongue and groove openings (red circle) sized so the edge of the right panel is just a tiny bit proud of the tenon’s shoulder.   Being proud makes the stile provide the clamping pressure when it is installed and the spacers keep the center panel from moving.  The red circle is the enlarged area in the bottom photo.

Making and installing the square plugs that fill where the screws were installed in the stiles is next.  There are five square mortises in each stile so in total 20 plugs are required.  The top right drawing has one of the mortises identified with a red arrow.  The blanks (top left photo) for the plugs were made in post 6 Cutting Tenons, More Mortises & Making Plugs for Screws and have been sitting until needed.  In checking them, they have developed a little bow along their length.  This is not a problem as they are oversize.  Correction is simple because they are short so the high points can be set against the table saw fence and the crown cut off.  With that done the freshly cut straight edge is set against the fence and the opposite edge is cut straight.  Now square and flat the blanks get ripped to a 64th of an inch oversize (bottom photo).

Using the thickness sander the slightly oversize blanks are brought down to just a couple thousands of an inch oversize for an interference fit.

Cutting the plugs to length is done on the chop saw.  Because the length of the plug is not critical, I just drew a pencil line on the blue plastic piece.  The inset is a closer view and in it you can see the pencil line (red arrow).

To make installation of the plugs a little easier a slight taper is added to about half of the plug.  The angle is set by tilting the table on the big disk sander.  That’s shown in the top photo where I used a .010” feeler gauge to set the tilt.  I wasn’t sure how much to tilt the table so used a feeler gauge allowing additional small adjustments to be easily made.  The bottom left photo shows the plug getting its taper added and the bottom right photo is a closer view.  When sanding the exposed top of the plug is face down on the table and the plug gets rotated a quarter turn to get all the faces.

The plugs are epoxied in place and to install the door is set at a comfortable working height using the adjustable part of my work bench.  The red arrow is pointing to one of two pipe clamps that lets me raise or lower the support shelf so the work is at the desired height.

To glue the plugs in place the mixed epoxy gets applied to the inside of the mortise then the plug is driven in until it’s just proud of the stile.  That’s shown in the top photo.  I did not wipe off the excess epoxy but left it in place to fill any gaps that there may be between the plugs and the stile.  After an overnight cure the plugs are sanded flush with the stile ending up with what’s shown in the bottom photo.

As an aside here are dotted lines showing the mortise and tenon joint along with the square mortise where the structural screws were inserted.  The red arrow points to the approximate depth of the plug.

 The Zia installation is next.  In order to look right the parts that make up the Zia need to be centered and square with the infill panels.  When I was working on the center panel, I marked the center of that board and used that line to set its left to right location centering it between the middle and bottom rails.  This gives me my vertical center reference line.  The horizontal center line is added as follows.  To start, a pair of spacers are cut the same length and slightly over half the height of the infill panels.  Next, they are set in the panel between the rails and half their overlap is marked then cut off on the chop saw shown in the top photo.  They are set on the panels again and if still too long another cut is taken.  It only takes a couple of tries to get a perfect fit.  That’s shown in the bottom photo with the inset showing where they meet.

These two guides are set against the stiles and up against the center rail.  A cross piece is butted up to them and a couple of other sticks are used to wedge the cross piece in place.  Now it’s easy to mark a perfectly centered square line using the left side of the cross piece (red arrow) across the panels.  If there was only one Zia to install, I would not have gone to this trouble but there are four and they need to line up perfectly to look right.  With all the measuring needed to locate the 17 pieces in the Zia there is a lot of room for error and this reduces that chance.

Next Up – Installing Zias, Completing Edge Roundovers, Jig for Hinge Pockets & Problems with the Door Hardware

Courtyard Gate – #10 Making Zia Parts & Installing 1st Infill Panel

After a few days setting only one of the Zia blanks had moved and it was a small bow that could be used but for now it’s set aside since I had some extras.  When the cardboard test pieces were cut the scroll saw was used cutting a stack of four pieces all at once.  That worked for the cardboard but would be way too thick to gang cut 4 pieces and take way too long to cut all 64 of the actual ½” thick cedar pieces individually.   To speed things up a jig on the table saw is used to gang cut three pieces at an angle matching the chord of the arc that’s the ray’s finished surface.  The red highlighted area in the photo shows what will be cut off.

Once cut the template with the appropriate arc is traced onto the face of the piece.  It’s then taken to the drum sander to add the curve to the end.  The arc to be sanded is pretty small and doesn’t take but a moment to make.

Making the center circle is next.  To start the blanks that had long ago been glued up to get the required width were checked for flatness and they were all good.  Cutting them down on the table saw to a 6 ½” square is next followed by laying out horizontal and vertical center lines to be used in centering the completed ring on the infill panels later.  With all that done the drill press is used to make a small hole inside the ring.  The top photo shows the scroll saw blade fed through that hole.  In the left bottom photo, the red arrow points toward the blade ready to be installed in the upper blade clamp.  The bottom right photo has the blade clamped, tensioned and the foot in place that holds the piece down while cutting the center free.

Once the center is cut out the inside surface is smoothed and brought down to the line with the drum sander.

It’s then on to the bandsaw to cut the outer perimeter of the circle.  This could have been done on the scroll saw but the band saw is a lot faster.  After being cut the outer edge is smoothed and brought down to the line using the large disk sander.

With the Zia’s circles done all 68 of the Zia’s applique parts are done along with a few extras and ready to be installed after a little hand sanding.

Gluing the door pieces together is next.  There are a couple of considerations for what glue to use.  First, the glue needs to be waterproof.  Second, I need to have enough working time before the glue sets to apply the glue, do the assembly, clamp the pieces together, check to make sure the gate is square, adjust if necessary and clean up the glue squeeze out.  The Type III glue used so far meets the first criteria of being waterproof but there is no way it meets the working time.  The Type III glue gives me about 10 minutes maximum working time and that’s not near what’s going to be needed which I estimate at about 30-40 minutes.  There are two different glues that I know of that meet the waterproof criteria and have longer working times.  First is Phenolic glue whose working time is between 20 and 30 minutes.  Better but not long enough to give me any cushion if problems show up.  Epoxy is my other choice with longer a working time of about 30 to 40 minutes although it needs to be clamped overnight for a full cure.

In the left drawing the highlighted pieces are to be glued up in the first round.  The center drawing is an exploded view of the pieces of the first step in assembly consisting of one stile, two of the three rails, the latillas including their dowels and anti-rotation pins.  The bottom photo shows the latilla’s pieces and the top right photo is with all those pieces glued and clamped with the remaining pieces dry-fitted.  It’s a good thing I went with the epoxy as it took almost 30 minutes to mix, apply, clamp and square the assembly then another 10 minutes or so to clean up any epoxy that had oozed out when clamped.  Now the whole process gets repeated with the other gate.

After letting the epoxy cure overnight, the clamps get removed so the screws between the stile and rails can be installed.  They are #10 x 4” long structural screws with an anti-corrosion coating.  There are two screws at each of the four corners and one at the center rail.  The drawing shows the highlighted stiles and rails that were epoxied together and will receive the screws.  The photo is a close view of the red circled area.  The dashed pencil marks outline the square mortise holes in the rail and the rail’s tenon that’s inserted into the stiles mortise.  The screws are set showing them at the bottom of the mortise and how far they will go through the tenon into the rail.

The next step is to epoxy on the bottom rail (highlighted) then once cured add two screws just like above.  I could have epoxied this rail on at the same time I did the first glue-up but thought doing so could have been beyond the working time of the epoxy.  It might have been OK but I was right at end of the working time without including this piece so it ended up being a good decision to wait. 

With the bottom rail in place, I could add the first of the three infill panels that go in the lower section.  Process is to apply glue to the long edge so it would get glued to the stile then slide it down the slots between the middle and lower rails then clamp it in place.  Last 1” long 23-gauge stainless steel pin nails are used at just the end of the rail (red arrows) to lock the panel in place.  This way the rest of the panel can expand and contract with no problems.  The bottom photo shows how thin the pins are. 

Last is to clean up and remove a few places where the glue oozed out along the infill panel/stile joint.  The top photo has a dime for scale.  The bottom photo is after a sharp chisel is used to cut the glue off after it has semi-set but not yet cured hard.

Next Up – Installing Infill panels, Fitting/Gluing Mortise Plugs & Marking Zia Reference Lines

Courtyard Gate – #9 Grooving Infill Panel, Rounding Inside Edges & Zia Blanks

To keep the infill panels flush and in the same plane they will be connected with tongue and groove joints illustrated in the top drawing.  The bottom photo is the setup that's the same process used to make the grooves for the panels to fit into in the rails.  

Likewise, the tongues to fit in the grooves are made the same way as the stepped tenons for the ends of the infill panels.

Before a full dry assembly is done there is one more piece of work needed for the infill panels.  The area I am referring to on the gate is circled in red in the upper left drawing and enlarged in the lower left drawing.  The area highlighted in blue is a gap that will funnel water down the expansion joint into the dado in the bottom rail and I don’t want that to happen.  The gap is there because the thickness of the tenon that joins the infill panels is narrower than the bottom rail groove.  The fix is cut away a small piece of the tenon that fits into the base rail and add a small filler piece.  In the upper right photo, the bottom rail has been removed to make the cut part of the tenons visible.  The lower right drawing shows the highlighted filler piece to be glued into the dado in the bottom rail.  This will block the opening in the panel’s expansion slot yet still allow the infill panels to move in response to environmental conditions.  The block will get glued in place at the final infill assembly.

Anyway, this is the table saw setup for cutting out the small piece of the tenon.

Next all the current pieces are dry assembled and clamped together.  At this point final assembly is getting close although there are still some miscellaneous details to be take care of.

One of those is to do some light sanding where the stiles and rails meet to make sure they are absolutely flush.  Once that’s done the interior edges get routed using a small radius bit to soften the interior edges of the stiles and rails.  The top photo shows the router and bit at an inside corner.  One problem with rounding an inside corner is the routed edge ends up as a curve rather than a clean intersection of the two radiused edges.  That’s shown in the bottom photo and I don’t like the way it looks.  To give a clean intersection requires some hand work which will be done after the final assembly is complete when everything is glued together.  I’ll cover that process then.  The outside edges will also get rounded after the final glue up.

After disassembling the gates, I decided to do just a little more work with the router to simplify the hand work discussed above once the gate is glued together.  The left photo shows the little “horns” where the router bit couldn’t get all the way into the corner between the rail and the stile.  Once dissembled it’s easy to touch these up as shown in the right photo and save some handwork later on.

At this point the final assembly glue up can start but because there are a lot of pieces that need to go together at the same time the Type III waterproof glue that’s been used so far won’t work.  That's because I need a longer working time than it has.  What will be used is a one-hour epoxy that’s been ordered.  In the meantime, the material for Zia’s applique shown in white in the rendering can be worked on.  The vertical bars will have their grain running vertically just like the panel they will be glued to so they are easy to make.  However, the horizontal bars are different in that to match the vertical grain of the panel they need to be glued up so that the grain runs vertically across the piece’s short dimension and not along their long dimension.  This necessitated gluing up the short wide panels shown.

Before making the Zia’s components I put together a full-size mock-up of the Zia on the door made from cardboard.  The one on the left being the current design and a second one where the center element is solid rather than open.   My guess was when given the option the owners would choose the original design and they did.  It was a simple task to cut one more cardboard piece to make sure since seeing an object full size in person does not always look just like the drawing. 

Cutting all the blanks for the Zia’s is up next and there are a lot of blanks to be cut.  Each Zia has 16 individual bars plus the center circle so that’s 17 pieces per Zia and there are four of them so it’s 68 pieces total.  Using the previously glued-up blanks for the short cross grain group I cut the 16 required plus a handful of extras for testing and in case there were problems.  Same thing for the longer pieces.  Here are the finished stacks not including the four pieces for the center circles.

There was one unexpected problem with one of the long boards in that it decided to warp when making the next to last cut to give me a pretty good curve.    Fortunately, the last piece was wide enough for an easy fix.   Process is to cut the curved piece into rough lengths which reduced to amount of curve per piece to a manageable amount.  Next is to run pieces through table saw with high end points against the fence cutting off the curve and giving me one straight edge.  Last, is to flip the board so the new straight edge is against the fence and cut the piece to final width.  That said, I will let the pieces sit to see if they are going to move or are now stable.

Next Up – Making Zia Parts & Installing 1st Infill Panel

Courtyard Gate – #8 Finishing the Latillas & Starting the Infill Panels

With the latillas turned it’s time to add the hand-hewn look to them.  Since everybody was happy with the prototype piece that look will be replicated.   It had the faceted 6 face layout drawn on one end and that worked fine.  However, so I don’t have to go through the layout process on both ends of each of the latillas a template gets made that can be traced onto the blank’s end.  As a refresher the layout starts using a compass to draw a circle the same diameter as the blank.  Next, with the point positioned on the edge an arc is drawn starting at the edge, passing through the center and intersecting the circle.  The point where that arc intersects is my center point for the next arc and the process is repeated six times.  After that the intersecting points along the edge are connected with a straight line.  That’s shown in the upper left-hand photo.  The upper right photo is after the pattern has been roughly cut out on the scroll saw.  Second the sawn edges are smoothed using the big disk sander per the lower-left photo.  Last in the bottom right the pattern has a ¼” hole drilled in it and one of the aluminum pins used to locate the pattern where its perimeter is transferred to the end of the blank.

Next the blank is loaded into the lathe with the left end mounted at the head stock (top photo) on the aluminum pin in the just made jig while the right end is mounted on a pin held in place using a drill chuck and another aluminum rod.  The chuck can be used in the tailstock since the lathe won’t be running for the shaping.

Last step before shaping the blank is to draw horizontal lines along the face of the blank at the points of the hexagon drawn on the blank’s end to act as a general guide when doing the shaping.

The shaping is done the same way as the test piece in Post 4, Making Latilla Sample.  The top photo is a finished example.  In close examination of the finish surface there were more of the circular scratches left in the flat areas than I wanted.  You can see them in the close-up middle photo.  A little hand sanding with some 120-grit paper cleaned them up (bottom photo).

Here is a dry fit of the frame and the installed latillas held in place with the aluminum pins. 

While the latilla’s fit great I want to do something more to lock them in place to prevent loosening over time besides end grain gluing them in.   Here is the test assembly where I used the prototype latilla and a scrap section of rail adding an aluminum nail (red arrow).  It will act as a reference pin mechanically locking things in place and the aluminum won’t rust.  Once the latilla was driven onto the nail it was pretty solid.  With success in the test, I added pins to the top end of all six latillas.

The last major part of the gate to add is the lower infill panels shown highlighted in the drawing below.  The panels will go into grooves cut in the middle and bottom rails.  Process to cut the grooves is to roughly center the saw blade in the rail set to the proper depth then make a pass through the saw.  That’s shown in the center photo.  The piece is then flipped end to end and run though the saw again making a perfectly centered wider groove in the piece. 

To widen the cut the saw’s fence gets moved a little to the right and the pieces are run thru the saw twice, once from each direction.  This process is repeated until the groove reaches the desired width.  The photo shows the completed grooves with the left rail’s finished groove up.  The process is the same for both the middle and bottom rails but their width differs because of the way the infill panels are installed.  More on that below.

In the drawing on the left the white part is the center rail and the dark part is the infill panel.  In it the panel is the same width as the groove.  The drawing on the right the dark part is the infill panel and the white part is the bottom rail.  Here the panel is stepped down so there is a small shoulder (red arrow) that rests on the bottom rail.  That has to do with keeping the moisture out of the bottom groove.  With the top rail when it’s raining water will shed off the top rail and infill panel and won’t collect where the rail and panel meet.  The bottom rail is different because without the step the rain will run down the face of the panel and collect in the groove encouraging the rot just like the existing gate.  The obvious solution of gluing the panel in place sealing out the rain won’t work.  That’s because the wood grain in the panels runs 90 degrees to the grain in the rails and the panels have to be free to expand and contract due to moisture changes.

The step part of the tenon is roughed out on the table saw then fitted using the router.  It is almost identical to the method used to make the tenons for the ¾” wide mortises.  The fence on the table saw defines the length of the tenon while the blade height is set to cut the tenon a couple hundredths thick so the router can be used for fine tuning.  Below is the table saw setup along with a close view.

Because there is a slight variance of 2-3 hundredths of an inch between all the panels in thickness the tenons need to be fine-tuned to just fit.  Remember when cutting the tenons I am not directly cutting their thickness but am cutting the depth of the step so as the piece varies in thickness so does the tenon.   The router is used to shave off a few thousands of an inch per pass to get that perfect fit.  Here is the setup.

This is what one set of panels look like in-place.  The panels are not cut to length or width and still need tongue and groove edges to lock together which is next but it gives you an idea of how they go together.

Next Up – Grooving Infill Panel, Rounding Inside Edges & Zia Blanks