Jointer - #1 A Gift, Rust Removal, Alignment & Starting Dust Collector Adapter

Part way through making the Planer Sled I got a note from a friend who follows this blog.  He had a barely used Delta 6” jointer on a mobile base that he gifted to me.  After picking it up I stored it in the garage until I had the time to rearrange the shop a bit to give it a home, which is now.  While the jointer is in almost brand-new shape after setting unused for a few years there were a few things I wanted to address before using it.  One was some rust on the machined tables and fence.  The other was that while it had an enclosed dust chute to direct the chips to the floor there was no way to hook it up to my shop-vac to capture the dust and for chip collection. 

The first thing to tackle is the rust.  One benefit of living in the desert is the low humidity which minimizes the accumulation of rust on unfinished machined cast iron surfaces.  Most of the rust was just a light bit on the machined tables and the fence.  There was a bit more rust where the fence sat on the infeed and outfeed tables due to the accumulation of chips that were stuck there.  Not bad, but it did take a little more elbow grease to clean up.  Unfortunately, I forgot to take a photo of the jointer before starting work so the first photos are after it was already disassembled and the rust had been removed.  Below the top image is of whole jointer.  The middle image is of the outfeed table and the bottom image is the infeed table.

Cleaning up the fence is next.  Below is what I use to use clean all the machined cast iron surfaces.  I start with mineral spirits (left bottle) to remove sap and the like.  Given the amount of pitch I am guessing that mostly pine or maybe cypress was jointed.  Sanding with 180 grit silicon carbide sandpaper mounted a red rubber block using WD-40 as a lubricant gets the rust off.  Once the rust is off the 180-grit paper gets changed out to 220 grit for finish sanding.  Next is to lightly spray it with the CRC 3-36 which is a lubricant and corrosion inhibitor.  It’s allowed to set a bit then wiped off.  Last is to use the Bostik GlideCote which is a high-molecular weight polymer that reduces friction.  All told it probably took about 30 to 40 minutes of work to clean and treat the surfaces.

Last bit of work is to check everything for squareness and to no surprise given the jostling during the move a couple of minor adjustments are needed.   First, is to square the fence to the table using a small steel square.

The other adjustment is to set the outfeed table so it is dead in line with the top of the knives.  This is so once the knives have made their cut the surface of the piece being cut continues in the same plane onto the outfeed table.  If they are out of alignment, it will cause problems and not give a true flat surface.  Process starts with a knife set at top dead center and a straight edge set on the outfeed table running across the cutter head.  Next the table is raised or lowered until the cutter head just touches the straight edge. The photos below show what this looks like.

Here the jointer is all put back together with all the adjustments made ready to go.  With that done I made a couple of test cuts and it works great – smooth, square and even.  However, it does generate a whole lot of chips that end up on the floor so before putting it into regular use I need to make an adapter that will divert the chips coming out of the chute and allow me to connect the vacuum to collect them.

First, is to fit a base piece of ¾ plywood to cover the chute then glue another piece of ¾” plywood on top of that for the vacuum hose to connect to.  Here is what that looks like glued up.  In the center of the top piece, you can see a couple of screws.  They were located and temporarily run in before gluing the two pieces together to assure that the two pieces would not slide out of alignment when clamped.  They then get removed, glue applied, the screws run in and the clamps added.

As you can see in the glued-up photo above the top block corners are clipped to get rid of sharp corners.  That was done using a jig on the table saw.  In the top photo the setup is being done with a 45-degree triangle.  The bottom photo shows how the cut is made.  Once the four corners are cut the top edge gets rounded over using the router and a small roundover bit.

After the glue dries the clamps and the screws get removed.  Next using the drill press a hole is drilled through both pieces which will provide a place to attach the vacuum hose.   Here you can see the drilled hole along with three concentric lines.  They are there to guide the hole enlargement and its tapering because the bit used is too small but it's the closest I have to what’s needed without making the hole too big. 

The oscillating drum sander is used to enlarge and taper the hole.  The taper is accomplished by tilting the table a couple of degrees and rotating the workpiece so the sanded face is always toward the front.  When getting close to final size the inside of the hole is marked using a pencil to confirm the full length of the hole gets a taper.  Now it’s just gradually sanding to enlarge the hole until the hose has a friction fit.  Last bit of woodworking is using the big disk sander clip the base’s corners knocking off the sharp corner then hand sand the remaining hard edges to soften them.  After that the adapter gets finished with three coats of lacquer sprayed on.

Next Up – Finishing Dust Collector Adapter & Starting Push Blocks

Master Bath Remodeling - #5 Moving the Cabinets

As mentioned at the end of the last post there are two big cabinets to be moved into the remodeled bath area.  These cabinets are 79” tall, 18” deep and 38 ¾” wide.  Because of the hallways width and two 90 degree turns the cabinets have to be moved upright plus it’s just me and my wife moving them.  The height is the only dimension I have to worry about as the minimum distance between the door threshold and the parting stop at the top is 80 1/8” giving me 1 1/8” to work with.  Now this is not as bad as it sounds because I designed the top of the cabinet to be removable which gives me another 1¼ or 2 3/8” total.  To facilitate the move, I built a low-boy style dolly which is designed to be as close to the floor as possible.  Below the drawing shows the design.  The long supports are 1 1/8” thick and are set so their bottom is ¾” above the floor to clear the thresholds.  If everything works out right there will be ½” clearance under the door frame. 

Because we can’t just pick up the cabinet and slide the dolly under it the loading process takes a little time.  It starts by tilting the cabinet toward the back so ¾” spacers can be put under the front legs then the cabinet is tilted forward and ¾” spacers are put under the back legs.  The process is repeated twice more first with sliding the long supports in place followed by adding ½” spacers under them.  Next the end cross pieces are set in place and 3” long screws run through them into the long supports.  As the screws get run in, they pull the long supports up until they are tight to the bottom of the crosspieces lifting the cabinet up the last ¼”.  The whole process does take a little time but allows a great deal of control in getting the cabinet safely up on the dolly.  The photo on the left shows the cabinet loaded up on the dolly and the right a closer view of it setting on it.

Because all the dolly castors freely rotate in all directions it’s easy to move the cabinet & dolly out of storage room, through the garage and down both hallways turning corners as needed.  Going over the four thresholds takes the most time but aren’t really hard.  Cedar shims provide a gentle ramp up and down over them.  The white cloth around the cabinet is to make sure the door does not accidently swing open.

Once the cabinet is in the bath it gets taken off the dolly the same way it was put on except in reverse.  Because the cabinets are tall and have large doors but are not really deep, I was concerned that they might present a tipping hazard.  To resolve that concern a steel angle brace gets attached to the sub-top of the cabinet and securely attached to the wall before the finished top is put back on.  The braces do require a small notch to be cut in the sub-top so the top will lay flat.  These photos show how that looks.  From here the cabinets are set in their final location, leveled and screwed to the wall.

After that’s been done to both of the cabinets the finished tops are put back on and they are ready to be used.  I can say for sure that the storage space will be way more useful than the huge garden tub. 

Last bit of information on the project is cost.  Since I did all the labor the only cost was for materials which totaled less than $270.  This includes the bag of cement, tile including some extra, thinset, grout, plumbing supplies, drywall and the brackets to attach the cabinets to the wall.  I had drywall joint compound and the paint so those costs are not included.  Also, not included was the plumber's work to replace the failed main shutoff valve as that was not really a part of the remodeling.

Master Bath Remodeling - #4 Completing Floor, Wall & Baseboard Tile

After all the new tiles have been applied to the floor and wall there are still the four salvaged bullnose tiles to be set in place.  Before that can be done, they need to be cleaned up by removing the existing thinset from their backs.  That’s done with an angle grinder loaded with a 50-grit abrasive disk.  Here about two-thirds of a tile back is cleaned up.

Laying the cleaned-up bullnose tile is next.  To make the two bottom tiles fit in with the existing size progression of the two top tiles where the top one is shorter than the existing second one, I made the tiles longer as they get closer to the floor with the bottom tile being a full length one.  To do this the bottom tile is set in place using the same method as the rest of the wall tiles.  The remaining gap is measured, a tile cut to fit and it is added.  Note that the bottom tile does not look like it’s back edge lines up with the floor tile but it does.   That’s because the wall tile is raised off the floor for a grout joint and the angle the photo was taken makes it look that way.

Here is the other end of the area done with the same sized tiles.  There is not a corner tile to match up against but instead the vertical edge of the existing tile is followed.  Also, on the left the outlet ended up pretty well centered on the tile joint.

Now with all the tile in the tub area set grouting can begin.  After mixing the grout a float is used to pack the grout into the joints between the tiles.  Once half a dozen or so tiles are grouted the excess is wiped off with a sponge then using the sponge the remaining grout in the joints is formed.  That’s followed by using fresh water to clean off the tiles to remove all the grout off them.  Last pass is with clean water followed by drying with a towel to completely clean them up.  The area being grouted is dependent on how quick the grout sets.  Here in the desert where it’s so dry it’s pretty quick.  After the walls the floor is done.

Here is the tub area with all the tile work done.  In this photo you can see how all the grout lines are centered and are continuous from the floor up the walls.  There is one thing that still needs to be taken care of though.  The grab bar left over from the tub needs to be removed.

Taking the grab bar off should have been straight forward, just removing the six screws holding it in.  That worked for five of them but one would not budge and the impact driver rounded the Phillips head out leaving no way to get a good grip on the screw.  To remove it I ended up drilling out the screw with progressively larger bits until the head came off.  With that done the divots and holes left from the screws and grab bar mounting plates get filled with wood filler.  When that dried it was sanded smooth and a layer of drywall compound applied to match the existing skip trowel or knockdown finish.  Here is what the two places looked like with that done and ready to paint.

Fortunately, I had a small amount of the original paint to use.  To get a good match a couple of coats are put on with a small foam roller feathered out a foot or so beyond the patch.  A roller is used instead of a brush to eliminate any brush marks which would identify the area as a patch.  Here are photos of the tub before and after the area is done.

Besides the work in the tub area, we wanted to remove the wood baseboard shown in the top photo in the whole bath area and replace it with tile since some had been water damaged.  After removing the existing wood baseboard new tile pieces are cut the desired height and applied to the wall using the same thinset and grouting method as done on the wall in the tub area.  With that done a spacer is used to draw a line parallel to the top of the new tile baseboard and painters tape applied to the wall at that line.  The space between the tape and the top of the tile gets grouted at a 45-degree angle matching the rest of the tile baseboard in the house.

Here is what the grouting process looks like in progress.  The float is held at about a 45-degree angle packing the grout in place.  Next, the float is held at the same angle with the bottom of the float on the edge of the tile and the top of the float set at the bottom of the painter’s tape.  The float is then pulled horizontally the length of the baseboard striking a smooth beveled grout bed.

This is what the grout looks like after being struck off.  It is left this way for a while until it firms up.  While waiting the face of the tile is cleaned up with a sponge and clean water.

Once the grout has firmed up the tape is removed leaving a nice straight sharply defined edge.  Next, the grout shape is refined as needed removing any inconsistencies using a damp sponge.  Last is using a clean sponge any grout on the wall or tile face gets removed with the tile face getting dried using a clean towel.  Early on I was a little concerned about doing the grout bevel as it was something new but it turned out very well and after I figured out how to do it not hard at all. 

This finishes up the actual remodeling but there are two cabinets I made in 2019 that need to be moved into the space for storage and that is going to be interesting as they are pretty good size and fairly heavy.

Next Up – Moving the Cabinets 

Master Bath Remodeling - #3 Concrete, Drywall, Electrical & Starting Tiling

Here the in the left photo you can see how the rerouted water line and the wall cavity gets insulated. The right photo shows the pit where the capped bath drain piping is all filled with compacted sand ready for the concrete pour.  One step not shown was to remove a raised area around the pit so it’s in the same plane as the rest of the floor.  My guess is the original forming for the pit was a bit high ending up with a little ramp all around it.  This ramp has to be removed so the tile will lay flat.  The same an old school combination of a hammer and chisel removal method was used here to minimize dust.

The pit took very nearly a whole bag of pre-mixed concrete to fill it.  Since it’s a lot easier to bring a patch up level with a surface versus removing the hardened concrete a 1/8” thick spacer is nailed to the bottom of the screed (red arrow) in the left photo.  Later on, a thin layer of fine patching material will be used to bring everything level.

There are three items in this photo.  First, on the left is where the original access door from the outside to under the tub is.  In that space new insulation has been added.  The next time we need to do some stucco repair on the house’s exterior the door and frame will get removed and patched.  Second, having laid out the tile spacing on the floor the outlet gets set so the joint between two tiles is pretty much centered on it.  Notching two tiles to fit around the outlet is a lot easier than cutting a hole in the center of a single tile.  Third at the far right near the bottom there are several pieces of masking tape wrapped around the pocket door framing.  That’s because when removing the tub framing that piece split.  It was a clean split so some glue, clamps and tape held it in place until the glue dried repairing the problem.

Hanging drywall as a backer for the wall tile is next.  If this were a wet area then a waterproof cement board would have been used.  The top photo shows it hung with the taping and filling around the screws in progress.  Since this is going to get tile, it does not have to be perfect.  The bottom photo shows after the wall got a coat of primer.  That’s used to prevent the paper surface of the drywall from sucking the moisture out of the thinset too fast which would weaken the bond between the drywall and the tile.

Next is to add the thin layer of patching material to fill in the pit and level the surrounding areas.  There were some places where the concrete was chipped so I went ahead and filled them too since the patching material was already mixed up.

The last bit of work to do before starting the tiling is to check the edges of the existing tile on both the floor and the wall to make sure I had clean edges to work with.  Here in the top photo, you can see where the original thinset had oozed out beyond the edge of the existing tile.  The bottom photo shows where it has been very gently removed using the cold chisel shown.  This was very careful work as I sure didn’t want to crack one of the exiting tiles.

At last, the actual tiling can begin.  It starts with the transition strip between the existing tile and the new tile as shown in the bottom photo.  This strip is made of alternating new tiles and cut pieces from the existing original tiles.  The front to back dimension is set so it matches the width of the existing bullnose edge tiles shown in the top left photo (red arrow).  That edge treatment will continue down the wall until it meets the floor using the salvaged bullnose tile.  The length of the individual tiles in the floor transition tile strip was calculated so all of them including the end pieces are the same size.  Well, almost – the end tiles are ¼” longer to take into account the thickness of the bullnose tile that will set on them.  End result is all the tiles have the same exposure.  The top right photo is me cutting the tiles using by brother-in-law’s tile saw he so kindly lent me.

Laying the tiles can now start.  Thinset cement used to bond the tiles to the concrete is mixed per the package instructions.  After it sets for 10-15 minutes to make sure all the particles are well hydrated it is remixed and if needed adjusted by adding water or the thinset mix to get the proper thickness.  Applying the thinset to the concrete is done with a ¼” by ¼” notched trowel shown in the top photo.   The tiles are then pressed into place and wiggled around to make sure good contact is achieved.  Last, a rubber mallet is used to firmly set them.  I use plastic spacers to control the grout line width so they are consistent.  In the bottom photo the transition strip is set except for the end pieces and the center part of the floor field is laid.  The twelve tiles shown are the only full-size tiles I will be putting down.  Every other tile has one or two edges cut.  This is necessary because I want the tile pattern to be centered on the floor with the wall tile joints lined up with the floor tile joints.  Matching the grout lines off the old tile is not possible since the new and old tile are different sizes.

Cutting the full tiles to size is done by scoring and breaking them using this tile cutter.  I have had mixed luck scoring and cracking tiles depending on the tile type but these worked really well.  The last major tile job I did was 20” square porcelain tiles that were thicker and more difficult to get a good cut on. 

Here the top photo shows the floor with all the floor tiles set in place.  They still have to be grouted but that will be done after the wall tile is set in place.  The bottom photo is of setting the wall tile.  I used a slightly different method for them.  First, a thin layer of thinset is applied to the drywall with a 6” putty knife.  This thin layer guarantees a good bond between the tile and the drywall.  Second, the ¼” by ¼” notched trowel is used to apply the thinset to the back of the tile followed by setting it in place using the same process as with the floor.

Next Up – Completing Floor, Wall & Baseboard Tile

Master Bath Remodeling #2 – Finishing Demolition, Plumbing Work & A Problem

With a little more of the tub support framing removed I can get a clearer view of what needs to be done with the plumbing.  First, is to cut the drain line riser off a few inches below the top of the concrete slab as shown in the top photo.  Also shown in the top photo is the primer and glue that will be used to glue the cap on.  The bottom photo shows the drain riser cut down some more with the cap glued on.  I have also started to fill the pit with compacted sand so later it can be filled with concrete.

Next is to remove the copper lines feeding the tub and cap them.  Here a small tube cutter is being used to cut the copper pipe after turning the water off.  These are just rough cuts.  Once I get everything out of the way final cuts will be made after measuring to make sure the capped pipe will be hidden within the wall cavity.  The blue material behind the water lines is a plastic material that is a part of the shower waterproofing.  It’s going to make soldering the caps on interesting since I don’t want to melt it or worse yet start it on fire.  When cut most of the water drained out of the lines but since this is the low point of the system it kept dripping and didn’t get really dry which I need when soldering the caps on.  To get around this I used compressed air to blow most of the water out of the line through hot and cold open sink faucets. 

To prevent melting the plastic or starting it on fire when soldering some extra precautions are taken.  First, one of the old tiles gets wrapped with a wet towel and set between the water supply lines and the plastic.  Second, when heating the pipe and fitting for soldering the flame from the torch was never pointed directly at the wall.  It’s always at an angle and pointed away from the wall if possible.  With these precautions the tile never even got warm.

Here are the hot and cold-water supply lines capped with the water back on.  The pit has also been filled up with compacted sand and is almost ready for the concrete to be poured.

More demolition progress with some of the tile removed along with the framing and cement board the tile was set on.  The tile and framing need to be gently removed where it is adjacent to the existing tile that is to remain.  I don’t want to bang away and potentially crack the grout or worse yet a tile.  Fortunately, the tile setting was not done very well and the tiles were not solidly affixed to the cement board.  They came off easily and did not chip the wall tile when removed.

The demolition continues until all the unneeded framing, tile, plumbing and the like are removed.  Here in the top photo, you can see the existing electrical outlet the tub’s pump was plugged into.  It will get mounted to the wall once the tile layout is finalized because I want it centered on a joint and not in the center of a tile.  In the bottom photo the red arrow points to a ridge where the mortar base for the tub oozed out under its framing and left a ridge stuck to the floor.  This has to be removed so the tile will lay flat.  After trying different removal methods what worked was an old school combination of a hammer and chisel.  Grinding it off would have probably been faster but would have created way too much dust.

Moving back to the ¾” water line for the hose bib that has to be re-routed with all the extra tub framing removed the top photo shows what the corner looked like.  The red arrow in the bottom photo shows where I had to notch out a couple of studs to make space for the pipe’s re-routing.  Because the space is pretty confined and I am working around the existing water line there was not enough room to get the power saw in there.  As a workaround a series of almost touching holes were drilled then knocked out using a hammer and chisel.  The bit at the top right is the one used and if you look at the tip it has a lead screw which pulls the bit through the wood making it easier to drill the holes.

Once the notches were cut so the pipe could be rerouted the water to the house gets shut off.  The plumbing here is a little different than what I am use to in that the domestic water has a shutoff at the water softener after the main shutoff.  In practice this means that when I was working on the tub hot and cold-water lines the water could be shut off at the softener while the hose bibs remained live.  However, now since I am working on the hose bib line the main shutoff had to be used.  Once the water had been shutoff at the main 1½” gate valve the curved pipe could be cut out and rerouted.  This consists of a couple new short sections, a 90-degree elbow and two unions to tie it all together.  The same method of protecting the shower waterproofing and wood structure with a tile and wet towel is used here.  One addition is a wet cloth wrapped around the copper pipe near the elbow for additional protection for the stud.

Here is what the finished rerouting looks like.  The copper line against the outside wall will get insulated with pipe insulation like the pipe on the right side of the top photo.  The empty space will also get insulated with a fiberglass batt.

Unfortunately, when I went back to turn the water on at the main shutoff its shaft twisted off inside the valve in its closed position.  This meant the water could not be turned back on to the house.  The top photo shows the valve and the pipe section that I cut out after digging the supply line up.  Fixing this requires two people each using both their hands to glue two unions (red arrows) in at the same time.  Since there is only one of me, I had to call in a plumber for help.  Fortunately, they came out the next day and by that evening we had water to the house again.  The bottom photo shows the new valve and the unions.  Once the water was back on, I checked for leaks and found none which is always good.  My guess is this will be the most expensive item of the bath remodeling.

Next Up – Concrete, Drywall, Electrical & Starting Tiling

Master Bath Remodeling - #1 Getting Started & Demolition Part 1

This series of posts is on a different type of project than the usual subject matter.  Here I am going to go through a “simple” remodeling project consisting of removing a huge garden tub in the master bath.  We have long wanted to remove it and recover the space for usable purposes.  It’s about 7’ long 42” wide and 18” deep.  Filled half full it holds about 125 gallons of water and would completely drain our hot water heater.  It does have a whirlpool motor but no way to keep the water at temperature and is uninsulated.  In the 12 years we have lived here it’s only use has been to rinse various things.  Before we bought the house, we asked the former owner if he had used it much and he said only once.  Here is what the tub and its space look like.  My wife did run some water in it once and when she started the whirlpool pump it blew out spiders and all sorts of stuff.  That was enough for her.

Before, getting started on the demolition I wanted to see what potential surprises might be hidden.  Fortunately, there was a small 16” square access door on the outside of the house so I could partially see what was under the tub.  After carefully checking for scorpions, black widow spiders and other things I stuck my head inside to look around.  However, what worked the best was to stick my camera inside and take some photos.  That gave me a record and an easy way to review the situation.  After a careful review there was a lot of good news.  I had a full concrete slab under the tub just like the rest of the house in lieu of exposed grade, the electrical supply was an unsecured outlet box and the water supply was in the common wall with the shower which is going to remain.  So far, no deal breakers.  Here are the photos.

Because the house was built in 1997, we knew the chance of finding matching tile was going to be a stretch and sure enough nothing matched.  That left us with two options.  First is to use wood flooring like we have in the bedroom.  Since I replaced the original carpet with wood a few years ago it is still available.  Second, is to find as close a tile match as possible and work to integrate it in the area.  Deciding that wood flooring in a bath is probably not the best idea we went looking for a compatible tile.  We did finally locate a close match after going to all the tile stores in the area.  Based on that here’s the third-generation rendering approximating our plans.  The original wall tile from the tub deck up will remain and the new tile will go from there down the wall and onto the floor.  An alternating dentil strip made up from some of the few original tiles and the new tiles will make the transition.  There are a couple of assumptions made for this plan.  First, is that I can demolish the tub and remove the tub deck tile without damaging the existing wall tile.  Second, is to salvage the existing bullnose tile along the front edge of tub’s deck so it can be reused.  Below is the rendering and a drawing of the bullnose tile.  As this is only a rendering the actual tile, we found is closer to the existing than shown.

With the exploration work done it’s time to start on the demolition.  It starts by removing the face of the tub surround so I can see what was hidden when looking in from the access door.  That’s done by breaking the tile and gently pulling it off.  I had to be careful not to damage or chip the floor tile since they are to remain.  So far, no real surprises at what’s behind the tile or in removing the tile.

Next is to very carefully try and remove the bullnose tile.  That’s done by using a reciprocating saw that instead of having a blade in it has a carbide grout removal rake.  To keep the dust down my HEPA shop vac is used to capture the dust.  Once the grout is removed a thin putty knife is used to gradually cut the thinset holding the tiles in place.  There are six full and two short tiles of which one of them was cracked.  I need four full pieces to be reinstalled later.  The first short piece did not go well as I cracked it but all the full-length tiles came off in one piece although most have a lot of thinset stuck to the back that will need to be removed.  Here I am sawing the grout out with dust mask and safety glasses on.

By being careful all the face tile adjacent to the floor tile got removed without any damage to the floor tile.  It did make a pretty good mess though.  Behind the removed tile face you can see some of the plumbing that will need to be removed.

With the bullnose tile salvaged and the face tile removed next is to take out the tub.  It’s way too big for me to remove in one piece so using a variety of tools but mostly a framing hammer the tub got taken out piece by piece.  Here are the demo tools, a progress photo and the demolished tub ready to be hauled away.

With the tub out of the way the slab it sat on is next to be removed.  It ended up not being a concrete slab but I think one made out of mortar.  In any case it was pretty easy to break into pieces small enough I could easily handle and remove.

Once the tub along with the slab was removed, I could get a good look at the plumbing work that is going to be needed.  As suspected from looking through the access door the hot and cold-water supply lines are within the shower common wall so that’s a good thing and will make capping the lines feeding the tub relatively straightforward.  The tub drain is in the pit in the center so cutting and capping it should be easy.  However, the ¾” copper water line on the right (red arrow) that feeds the hose bib mounted on the outside wall used for watering the back patio plants is a problem.  The plumber who did the original work used Type K flexible copper to feed the hose bib and it is not run within the wall but arcs across the open area under the tub.  This means it has to be rerouted to run within the walls.

Next Up – Finishing Demolition, Plumbing Work & A Problem